Jerusalén, piel de ceniza. Por Jorge Rozemblum

Lo confieso: no me siento cómodo en Jerusalén. La ciudad me hace sentir que no soy digno de pisar las mismas piedras que tantos personajes históricos y bíblicos. La piel de la urbe, su silueta tan distinta de la de otras desafiantes de la gravedad, estirándose para rascar los cielos, puede que brille con luz propia o por el reflejo en la emoción que empaña la vista, pero es un espejismo que emana de las cenizas de tantas civilizaciones. Navegar por sus laberintos en pendiente es viajar en desorden por los tiempos, transitando huellas de fe, de peregrinación, de asalto, de fuego, de tortura, de elevación espiritual, de pan, de sangre. Todo confluye en una argamasa que oculta lo que fluye bajo el pavimento: ríos, túneles, osarios, tesoros que hibernan sepultados por derrumbes y olvido, a la espera de que los devuelvan al aire de montañas límpido como el vino.

No es fácil desprenderse de la carga del pasado cuando tus pies hollan el mismo polvo que los santos y los malditos que dejaron allí su cicatriz. O cuando te internas en las entrañas de la montaña explanada y amurallada, como vasos comunicantes entre los submundos de roca y agua, y los del fuego y aire que se exhiben bajo el sol. No puedo imaginarme viviendo día a día dentro de ese ombligo que se retuerce y transita del cielo al núcleo del planeta, tragándose la doble hélice del tiempo humano, del relato que exuda la memoria, historias nimias que se mayusculan en un paisaje que, en principio, apenas se distingue del resto de los montes de Judea, sólo que algunos de sus diseños no son obra de las fuerzas tectónicas sino pirámides verticales que confluyen en el infinito invisible donde se alojaba el mundo cuajado en sendas lajas del desierto talladas de ley.

Jerusalén acaricia el cielo con cúpulas brillantes, campanarios y torres de vigías, pero también mira hacia abajo, de lo alto de su muralla a la ciudadela donde David planeó su gloria y aún más abajo, hacia las venas que traían el agua a sus moradores, en sus caminos de ascensión y peregrinaje hacia el puente de lo divino y lo humano. Cuántas generaciones prometieron cada año volver a ella, cuánta sangre derramada en el pasado lejano y el reciente, cuánto dolor al ser nuevamente expulsados de la roca que nos ató al mismo lugar, y cuánta euforia y canto al recuperarlas.

Fue botín de guerra y altar favorito para que otros dioses poderosos ostentasen sus formas que hoy sólo son objetos de museo. Fue cabeza del reino de los esclavos liberados, hoy de los retornados. Por allí dejaron su sombra los imperios, que sólo impregnaron la piel con sus cenizas mientras, por dentro, aún palpita su alma judía.

Shabat shalom

Jorge Rozemblum

Director de Radio Sefarad

www.radiosefarad.com

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