El israelí Jacky Ben Zaken tiene el exclusivo privilegio de poder navegar las aguas más bajas del planeta: es el único marinero del Mar Muerto.
(Vía Aurora)
Con su pequeña embarcación y enorme conocimiento del lago salado más famoso del mundo, Ben Zaken consiguió que el Ejército de Israel le permitiera surcar esa zona militar cerrada y hoy tiene como misión convertir a todo pasajero en un embajador del Mar Muerto.
Hombre de mar, como se define, comenzó a guiar a los reporteros que acudían a visitar la zona cuando hace una década Israel intentó inscribir el lago como Patrimonio Mundial de la UNESCO.
«Allí empecé la idea. Comencé a trabajar en la unidad de rescate en el mar con el Ejército y me tomó tiempo convencerles (de tener un permiso con fines turísticos) porque es una frontera», explica sobre esta laguna, que baña tierras de Jordania en la otra orilla.
Ben Zaken echa el ancla junto a la geografía litoral más singular creada por el lago, como las playas que, en lugar de arena, forman granos de sal o los moldes submarinos con forma de champiñón que generan manantiales de agua dulce en contacto con el agua marina, con la que no se mezcla.
Parece saberlo todo sobre su superficie y profundidades y desafía a los turistas con preguntas más allá de lo que sabe el común de los mortales: que en el Mar Muerto se flota por su alta salinidad. Es también uno de los lagos más profundos, con 480 metros en la zona norte, rico en minerales y que aporta el 86% de potasio que se consume a nivel mundial.
Estos minerales que cristalizan crean una gama de estratos de colores en la costa cada día más visibles por el descenso del nivel del agua y consolidan islotes de sal petrificada que perfilan impresionantes paisajes enmarcados por las montañas rojas del desierto.
Los acuíferos que nacen en las montañas de la ciudad de Hebrón, en Cisjordania (Judea y Samaria), y de la ciudad santa, Jerusalén, alimentan este ecosistema que «no es un mar, sino un lago terminal, y está condenado a desaparecer porque no tiene continuidad».
«Hoy pierde más agua por evaporación de la que recibe, lo que equivale a 600 piscinas olímpicas todos los días», comenta sobre los riesgos de secado del Mar Muerto, pero cree que es posible una solución si se garantiza y protege la entrada de agua de los históricos manantiales naturales.
Con ocho millones de años, es relativamente joven para la edad de la naturaleza, y se creó merced a la placa tectónica africana del Rift, entre dos placas, la que asienta Israel; y donde se sitúa Jordania, quedando este lago en la zona más baja del mundo.
Como parte de la ruta, la embarcación de Ben Zaken atraca frente a uno de los complejos turísticos que han tenido que cerrar por los socavones que provocan los depósitos de sal que quedan a medida que desaparece el mar, reducido significativamente en su parte central.
Hoy, inmensos cráteres, de decenas de metros de diámetro, suponen también un riesgo para los escasos residentes de su litoral, entre ellos Ben Zaken, que no pretende marcharse: «Si me preguntas a mí, este es el mejor lugar para vivir».
«Cuando vives aquí o en zonas remotas como Alaska, Australia o Dakar, si no conectas con el alma y tu ser, no puedes sobrevivir, hay otros lugares más bonitos y fáciles», confiesa sobre su vínculo con este inhóspito paraje, con escasos servicios al alcance o vegetación.
Pero Ben Zaken es capaz de desentrañar toda la magia de este ecosistema único para llevar a cabo lo que considera su misión como navegante: concienciar a todos los pasajeros de lo que puede perder el mundo.


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